Despite being in Bali numerous times (mostly for work), I have not had the time to truly see the sights up until recently. And one of my dearest wish was to be able to watch some of the cultural knick-knacks and performances available within this beautiful island.
On top of my list is the Barong Dance. There are several venues for this dance located in various spots around the island, but none are truly the genuine dances. According to the local Hindus, the true Barong performance is only held during a holy and religious day of celebration depending on their Hindu calendar. And each Barong dance performance differs in depiction of characters according to its territory or region. I asked about getting this calendar and was told that one can get it easily from some of the groceries or other places of commerce as a souvenir or gift, but the real Hindu calendar used by the Balinese Hindus can only be gotten from the Hindu priests themselves. I decided to wait for that chance instead of getting one that is just decorative.
Since both these are temporarily out of the list at the moment, my next best bet is the Kecak performance. Again, there are several of these said Kecak dances found all around Bali, but the most complete and most genuine Kecak dance can be found at the famous Uluwatu temple site. When I asked my guide what he meant by the most “complete” and “genuine”, he said that he has seen many, and some of the other performances skips a certain chapter of the story, making it incomplete. “Sometimes a part of the story is not told,” he said, as we sat by a gift shop’s side stairs, eating this delicious chicken sate made by a local Balinese vendor who barbeques the sate on the spot.
Towards the evening, there will be a small stall selling "sate" cooked on the spot opposite the parking lot. One can get 10 sticks for as cheap as Rp. 15.000. In other areas, you can even get them for Rp. 10.000! Super yummy!
“Then there are some others which do not feature Hanuman.” Incase you’re unaware; Hanuman is the colorful & mischievous Monkey God, a character which is just as fascinating on its own. Once we were done with the sate (which was absolutely delicious by the way – and this is coming from a person who lives in a town famous for its sates!), we made our way to the temple site.
The ticket counter is located to the south side of the Uluwatu temple, where a table area is manned by several vendors in traditional Balinese “uniform”. Stacks and stacks of tickets are placed upon its table with names of groups written on it, indicating booked tickets for groups of tourists. The stage is located on the southern end, which is not hard to miss, especially when the chanting starts. A single entry costs Rp.70,000.
“Everyday, the seats are full,” my guide said. A brief glance at the parking lot on the northern end will tell anyone that despite its maximum capacity, tour buses are still flowing in, following a stream of vans and private cars. I followed him quickly up the path as he tried to get me a good seat. “Seating capacity at its maximum is for 300 viewers.” 300 people only? Even though full to the brim, and out of sitting places, most tourists are still content to stand or sit by the side until it spills over to the stage area a little. I was warned not to be too close as the fire dance act will not be so enjoyable in that sense.
For those who are unfamiliar with the Kecak Ramayana & Fire Dance, it was originally developed in the 1930’s by a German artist by the name of Walter Spies for a film. Spies was fascinated with the “sanghyang” or ‘chorus of the sacred trance dance’ and combined it with the sound of chattering from crowds of men crouched over cockfight events. With this combination, he developed it with a local Balinese dancer, Wayan Limbak, to produce this performance. From there, it took off as one of the best cultural dance performances in Bali. Safe to say, this development is considered quite new and very successful.
The Kecak begins just before sunset at 18:00 hrs, against a beautiful backdrop of the sea and sun at one end, and a sea of trees on the other. The spectators sit in a circle of ascending wooden chairs constructed to surround a small circular floor stage.
Kecak Ramayana
Once the performance started, everyone was mesmerized. In order to not spoil potential visitors’ fun, I will not elaborate the story, but rest assured, once you go for the performance, each person is given a piece of paper explaining each act from the Ramayana. Moving to the rhythm of the trance-like “Kecak! Kecak! Kecak!”chanting by a group of men surrounding the play, the actors and actresses carried out the act with fluid body movements, complete with facial expressions to tell the viewers of their feelings. There is not much dialog, mostly the rhythm of the chants which gives the story its flow. Delighting the crowd is the random emergence of Hanuman, the magical white monkey, who causes mischief and laughter amongst viewers as part of the show.
Fire Dance : Hanuman kicks up a riot in the act
The entire Kecak Ramayana & Fire Dance show takes up a solid one hour. By the time it was over, it was dark all around us but smiles aplenty on the faces of satisfied customers. For those who think it might be a little too expensive, rest assured, it’s not. The quality of the performance and energy depicted by the performers is a memory you would want to bring home with you. Even if you’ll be late for dinner, try not to miss this performance when you’re visiting Uluwatu in the evening. I for one would not mind going for it again, only the next time, I’ll not forget the insect repellent!
“You my want help?I’ll help you take a picture,” he offered. No, thanks. I don’t like my own touristy pictures. He kept smiling though, “You came on your own?” Affirmative. “Oh~,” he mused, looking at me with… respect? “Very good and brave of you to come alone!”
